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Writer's pictureAlyssa Yang

The Promise and Peril of Skin Whitening Creams

Skin bleaching creams containing toxic chemicals are perpetuating colorism
An advertisement for skin lightening creams featuring a dark-skinned woman of color. Image provided by HealthyWomen

In recent years, the use of skin whitening creams has become a global phenomenon, with millions of people seeking to achieve lighter skin tones. Bleaching creams, or cosmetics products that aim to reduce melanin production in the skin, are often marketed with the promise to erase “imperfections.” Regardless of whether they fulfill their intended purposes – such as fixing uneven skin tones, hyperpigmentation and blemishes or effectively lightening the skin tone – the indiscriminate use of skin whitening creams poses significant risks to both our physical and mental health.


According to the World Health Organization (WHO), skin-lightening cosmetics with chemical amounts higher than necessary can cause skin discoloration, damage to the lungs, eyes and kidneys, as well as birth defects in children. Many skin whitening creams contain toxic ingredients, such as hydroquinone, mercury and corticosteroids. Hydroquinone, in particular, is a common ingredient used to inhibit melanin production. It has been banned or restricted in several countries due to its harmful effects on the skin. Long-term usage can lead to a condition known as ochronosis, characterized by an irreversible blue-black discoloration of the skin. Hong Kong issued a public warning against skin care creams containing mercury, labeling them a health hazard. In fact, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning about mercury-containing creams after several cases of mercury poisoning were reported.


Following protests against colorism in the Black Lives Matter movement, certain beauty brands have taken initiatives to erase the marketization and glorification of light skin in their products. Johnson & Johnson stopped selling skin whitening products in Asia; L'Oréal removed words that associate “whiteness” to “beauty” on its website; and the popular South Asia-focused brand managed by Unilever, renamed its Fair & Lovely cream to Glow & Lovely. Still, the larger issue at hand remains unaddressed.


These advancements in cosmetics are another avenue that enables colorism to spread. Colorism is, as per its definition, the prejudice towards individuals with a darker skin tone, especially within one’s own race. Whether intentional or inadvertent, casual or large-scale, it permeates throughout society, influencing our thoughts and actions. Ads feature models with creamy white skin, “inclusive” blockbuster movies rarely cast dark-skinned actors, and Southeast Asian migrant workers are considered “inferior” to people with a fair complexion.


Skin tone bias occurs within and across racial and ethnic lines, especially amongst Asian, Black and Brown communities. The obsession with skin lightening puts our mental and physical health at risk. Body shaming, particularly for teenagers, leads to low self-esteem, body dysmorphia, anxiety and depression. Moreover, when celebrities enthusiastically advertise blood-thinners and laser operations to viewers, going to extreme lengths to conform to conventional beauty ideals, fans feel compelled to do the same.


The desire for lighter skin is rooted in deep-seated societal pressures, white supremacy and colonial social hierarchies like casteism. The pressure to conform to these ideals drives people to take extreme measures, disregarding risks to their health. As a unified society, it is crucial that we work to eliminate bias and skin tone discrimination.

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